Jacques Pépin’s Superb recipe for Spinach and Gruyère Stuffed Pork Chops
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Viking Star docked in Eidfjord, Norway
If you follow me on Instagram (@montemathews) you know that I have been in Scandinavia all last week. I boarded Viking Star in Germany and sailed to Denmark and Norway. As soon as I can cook them, I’ll be sharing some wonderful discoveries on my Viking Ocean itinerary both on board ship and ashore. And I can’t say enough good things about this entire trip.
While Travel and writing about it is my great pleasure in life, as with all travelers, it’s nice to come home. Especially when Andrew is at the end of that particular rainbow. He’s subsisted on a great deal of Quiche Lorraine in my absence. That, and when I asked him what he wanted for my first dinner home, he said “anything but chicken”. I was happy to oblige and instead went for ‘the other white meat’, an incredibly durable Advertising tagline for Pork that hasn’t been used since 1997. Today’s recipe was a triumph last time I tasted it. And of course it would be. Its author is the incredible Jacques Pepin and it came for his 11th cookbook: “Jacques Pepin: Heart and Soul in the Kitchen” (Houghton Mifflen Harcourt 2015). Even as a long time fan of Jacques Pépin and owner of at least ten cookbooks that the chef has already written, I can say this is one of my all-time favorite cookbooks. The reason is simple and can be found in the title. M. Pepin has gone back to his roots and his memories and infused every page with his philosophy on life and of food. And oh what food! Simple, direct, delicious. Before I get to the recipe, let me tell you a little about the Chef.
Jacques Pepin was born in Bourg-en-Bresse, a town near Lyon, in 1935. His mother, Jeannette, and father, Jean-Victor owned a restauratn called “Le Pelican”. Pepin basically grew up in its kitchen. He went off to Paris where he ‘staged’ at the Plaza Athénée Hotel under famed Chef, Lucien Diat. Diat also came from a cooking family. His brother, Louis, is credited with inventing Vichyssoise. Pepin truly distinguished himself during his compulsory military service, not as a soldier, but as Head Chef for three French Heads of State including Charles DeGaulle himself. In 1959, Pépin left France bound for New York’s Le Pavilion. The restaurant is credited with having brought French food to the United States. It had started life as “Le Restaurant du Pavilion de France” at the 1939 New York World’s Fair. A mercurial Frenchman, Henri Soule, ran it and its kitchen was the domain of Pierre Franey. Pépin and Franey formed a friendship and often partnership that only ended with Franey’s death in 1996.
When Pepin arrived at Le Pavilion, he was astonished to see how poorly paid and poorly treated the staff were. Soulé was famous for crying poverty while simultaneously offering free meals and wines to any number of celebrities. Pépin, like any good Frenchman, joined in a grève (or strike) at which Mafiosi physically threatened him. Escape came via a Le Pavilion patron named Howard Johnson. He hired both Franey and Pépin to enhance the menu at his chain of restaurants. M. Pepin managed to keep his job and get a B.A. Columbia University in 1970. He followed that up with a master’s degree in French literature from Columbia in 1972.
These are the recipes that the chef prepares for his wife of 52 years, Gloria, his daughter Claudine and her husband Rollie, also both chefs, and their daughter, Shorey. These are the dishes, many of which came from his mother, that make it easy to put French food on your family table. The recipes are in the style of “a la Bonne Femme”, the translation of which is ‘in the manner of a good housewife’. But like all great chefs, Pepin can hardly leave well enough along. He experiments, improvises and he encourages his readers to do the same. In this case, I would follow the recipe to a T. After this recipe, you’ll find links to some other of my favorite Pepin’s. Included is a sensational “Poulet a la Crème” which I hope to make when Andrew starts craving chicken again. Here is the recipe:
A simple pork chop takes on great character when stuffed with Spinach and Gruyère Cheese then topped with a tomato and wine sauce.
By: Monte Mathews
Ingredients
For the Stuffing:
1 tablespoon peanut oil
About 9 cups baby spinach
1/2 teaspoon grated nutmeg
2 teaspoons chopped garlic
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 1/2 cups grated gruyère cheese
For the Chops:
4 thick boneless pork loin chops (1 3/4 pounds total, about 1 inch thick)
1 tablespoon peanut oil
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup sliced scallions
1 teaspoon chopped garlic
1 large ripe tomato (12 ounces), cut into 3/4-inch dice (about 2 cups) Note: I used cherry tomatoes cut into halves and quarters.
1/4 cup homemade chicken stock or canned low-sodium chicken broth
1/4 cup dry white wine
1/4 cup diced kalamata olives
3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro (Optional)
Directions
Step 1First, make the stuffing:
Step 2Heat the oil in a large skillet over high heat. Add the spinach, nutmeg, garlic, salt and pepper and cook for about 3 minutes.
Step 3Transfer to a plate and let cool. Mix the grated cheese into the cooled spinach.
Step 4 Place the chops on a work surface and, using a sharp paring knife, split them horizontally in half three quarters of the way through. Stuff with the spinach mixture and press the edges together. (The chops can be stuffed ahead, covered, and refrigerated until cooking time.)
Step 5At cooking time, preheat the oven to 140 degrees.
Step 6Heat the peanut oil and butter in a 12-inch skillet. Sprinkle the chops with half the salt and half the pepper, add to the pan, and sauté over high heat for about 3½ minutes. Turn them over, cover, and cook for 3½ minutes on the other side. Transfer to a plate and keep warm in the oven.
Step 7Finally, make the sauce:
Step 8Add the scallions and garlic to the drippings in the skillet and cook for 30 seconds. Stir in the tomato, chicken stock, and white wine, bring to a boil, and boil over high heat for about 2 minutes. Add the remaining salt and pepper, stir in the olives, and mix well.
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Heart & Soul is my #1 “go to” cookbook with ATK ‘s Cooking for two close behind. As you indicate, recipes are easy to prepare and express wonderful flavors. I met Chef at the Denver airport and we shared a glass of wine while both of us waited for a connecting flight. I did my best to not be a star gazer and asked him technical questions about cooking techniques. This was well before the internet in the 80’s when we met and he was glad to share his thoughts and I wrote down notes that have helped me over the years. Jeri’s personal favorite is the Chicken Chimichurri on page 200. Quick and easy and a wonderful summer dish served with a crisp Savignon Blanc.
Marshall, thank you so much for sharing this wonderful memory. I shall definitely try the Chicken Chimichurri. I find that food people like Pepin are a very giving lot and your encounter backs that theory up. Thanks again for writing.
Did you know that New York State is the second largest apple producer in the whole country? Only Washington State tops us. Trust a resourceful friend of ours, Wendy Brovetto, native New Yorker and grandchild of an Upstate New York Farm family, to create truly incredible Rustic Apple Jams in 4 extraordinary flavors. When she did, Croton Trading Co. was born.
Wendy explains ”We created our apple jam after one of those overzealous days of apple picking yielded a larger-than-usual haul. With more apples than any family could consume, the experimenting began and gave way to what we think is the perfect blend of apples and cinnamon.”
“We source our apples from local NY Orchards -- Thompson's Orchard in Westchester Co andl Richters Orchard on Long Island. I have a special fondness for these family-owned farms. Richters Orchard was a big part of my childhood, as my sistersand I would go on weekly outings with my dad to stock up on apples and cider"
"We carefully blend different apples to create our flavor profile and find inspiration from seasonal spices to create our Apple Jam”. Wendy proudly states.
Now Croton Trading Company is up to 4 flavors: Fall Harvest Blend, Ginger Pear Fusion, Chai, and Brown Sugar. You can see the whole range here:
Needless to say, we couldn’t wait to put Croton Trading Company’s Apple Jam to work making our Skillet Apple Pork Chops. This one-pot recipe is perfect for weeknights but so good you may want to serve to company. The chops finish cooking in Croton Trading’s Apple Jam and we always serve it on the side to give even more great apple taste to the dish. Here’s the recipe:
1 ½ tablespoons olive oil, divided
4 (6-oz.) bone-in pork chops
¾ teaspoon kosher salt, divided
¾ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, divided
½ cup unsalted chicken stock (such as Swanson)
1 cup Croton Trading Rustic Apple Jam (we used Ginger Pear)
1 tablespoon chopped fresh sage
1 ½ teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary
1 small red onion, thinly vertically sliced
Chopped Parsley for garnish.
Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add 1 1/2 teaspoons oil to pan; swirl to coat. Sprinkle pork chops evenly with 3/8 teaspoon salt and 3/8 teaspoon pepper. Add pork chops to pan; cook 5 minutes on each side or until pork chops beautifully browned. Remove from pan. Set aside pan and drippings.
In a small bowl, combine stock and Croton Trading Apple Jam, stirring with a whisk. Set aside. Add remaining 1 tablespoon oil to pan with drippings, swirl. Add remaining 3/8 teaspoon salt, remaining 3/8 teaspoon pepper, sage, rosemary, and onion to pan; cook 4 minutes, stirring occasionally. Stir in stock mixture. Return pork chops to pan; cook 3 minutes or until liquid is reduced by half. Plate each chop individually. Top with chopped parsley as a garnish. Serve with plenty of Croton Trading Apple Jam on the side.
Your writing and recipes are the very best. I love reading your columns and trying out new dishes. So glad you are doing this.
How very thoughtful of you to write Marilyn! It is much appreciated and even more so knowing you are getting something out of it! XOXO Monte
Heart & Soul is my #1 “go to” cookbook with ATK ‘s Cooking for two close behind. As you indicate, recipes are easy to prepare and express wonderful flavors. I met Chef at the Denver airport and we shared a glass of wine while both of us waited for a connecting flight. I did my best to not be a star gazer and asked him technical questions about cooking techniques. This was well before the internet in the 80’s when we met and he was glad to share his thoughts and I wrote down notes that have helped me over the years. Jeri’s personal favorite is the Chicken Chimichurri on page 200. Quick and easy and a wonderful summer dish served with a crisp Savignon Blanc.
Marshall, thank you so much for sharing this wonderful memory. I shall definitely try the Chicken Chimichurri. I find that food people like Pepin are a very giving lot and your encounter backs that theory up. Thanks again for writing.