From Melissa Clark: “This tender Rhubard poundcake has slivers of vanilla-poached rhubarb running across the top and shot through the center, adding a tangy sweetness to the buttery crumb.”
The annual arrival of Rhubarb at our local Bridgehampton farm stand is always cause for Andrew to bake something Rhubarb. This year, his contribution to Rhubarb season was a great-tasting cake which Melissa Clark wrote about in The New York Times. Ms. Clark pointed out that finding a Rhubarb cake recipe was never an issue but finding one that was also great-looking was a greater challenge. She pointed out that Rhubard is so full of moisture, it often turns into ‘a beige mush’. Here she poaches rhubarb in sugar which candies the stalks so they not only keep their shape, they become far less tart. And by poaching them, you can also add a secondary flavor, in this case, Vanilla. And it the “waste not, want not” category, the syrup used to poach the rhubarb is reduced to a glaze that’s brushed over the cake for shine and moisture.”
Greenhouse Rhubarb is always the first to appear.
It’s grown for those of use who simply cannot wait to cook with these rich, red stalks. So growers rush out ‘hothouse rhubarb’, which is a brighter red, sweeter tasting, and more tender than what comes from the ground. After our particularly wet and cold Spring, local Rhubarb has finally made its appearance. And Andrew could not wait to work with it.
Rhubard is not native to North America
I’ve long associated Rhubarb as being quintessentially North American and remember it well growing up in Montreal. We even grew it in our garden which was quite a surprise since the only other edible we grew there were potted chives. But Rhubarb is not North American. Rhubarb has been grown in China for thousands of years. Its roots were prized as medicinal; it was used as a laxative. It was one of the first Chinese medicines imported to the West. Brought along the Silk Road, it reached Europe in the 14th century. Because of its long journey across Asia, Rhubarb was expensive. It cost several times the price of other high-value herbs and spices like Cinnamon, Opium, and Saffron. Marco Polo searched for Rhubarb which he found in the mountains of the Chinese province of Tangut. It was mentioned in the same breath as “rubies, diamonds, pearls” and rhubarb.
Because it was so expensive and in so much demand from apothecaries, huge efforts were made to cultivate Rhubarb in Europe.
What they grew however never matched the medicinal qualities of the Chinese varieties. However, the variety grown in Russia, called “Siberian Rhubarb”, became the ancestor of what is grown today. As sugar became less expensive and more widely available, Rhubarb as a culinary tool took hold. Rhubarb came to America as early as the 1730s where it was planted for both medicinal and culinary purposes by one John Bartram. Thomas Jefferson wrote about his plants at Monticello: “Rhubarb, the leaves excellent as spinach.” The stalks were a relatively recent entry into the kitchen. And as sugar became affordable, their use grew and grew. For a deep-dive into Rhubarb’s history go to: https://rhubarbs.com/the-history-of-rhubarb-from-ancient-times-to-modern-day/
Advice from Melissa Clark:
“For the most vivid stripes, use the reddest rhubarb stalks you can find. They will fade to hot pink after poaching and baking. Green rhubarb also works; the cake won’t be quite as striking, but it will be equally delectable. This cake is best served within a day of baking. After that, the rhubarb will start to dry out.” Here is the recipe:
This tender poundcake has slivers of vanilla-poached rhubarb running across the top and shot through the center, adding a tangy sweetness to the buttery crumb. Rhubarb Pound Cake from Melissa Clark in The New York Times
Ingredients
Directions
Rhubarb is one of my favorites. I usually make or buy a rhubarb or strawberry rhubarb pie at our local farm for Thanksgiving. I also am a fan of strawberry rhubarb jam. I’ve never seen a poundcake made with rhubarb, quite original and like the way the stalks form a nice design over the top. Adding this to my baking list.
This is a great way to use Rhubarb. But I guess we’ll have to wait a while to bake it. XOX