Come along for a Cooking Class at Sea and take home recipes for Lobster Cakes and Coconut Profiteroles! My latest article for The Daily Meal has arrived!
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Learn to Cook Like Viking Ocean Cruises’ Chef While on Board
A Hands-on Approach is key to Viking Ocean’s Cooking Classes. Photo by Monte Mathews
Cruise ships have jumped on the culinary bandwagon in a major way. There’s virtually no major cruise line that doesn’t offer cooking demonstrations, wine and chocolate tastings, even celebrity chef appearances. But for those of us who want to get our hands dirty, the selection becomes far more limited. The “Big Three” — Carnival, Norwegian, and Royal Caribbean — confine their culinary arts offerings to shore excursions only. Then there are the ships where you can look, but not touch, at demonstration kitchens where cooking “classes” consist solely of watching the pros and, with any luck, sampling their dishes.
On Holland America, Food and Wine Magazine partnered with the cruise line in its Culinary Arts Center. Celebrity cruises paired up with Bravo TV to present “Top Chef at Sea” events on many sailings. Disney, Princess, Seabourn, and Crystal all offer cooking demonstrations among their enrichment activities. Princess, for example, offers “Chef’s Table” at sea as part of the ScholarShip@Sea program. Passengers are invited into the ship’s galley where chefs reveal their favorite recipes. But what none of these lines offer are hands-on opportunities to touch, feel, and work with the ingredients — to actually cook something.
The Kitchen Table is a beautiful place to cook
There are exceptions. Oceania has audience participation classes on two of its five ships. Luxury carrier Silversea has a Relais & Chateaux L’Ecole des Chefs cooking school at sea and entire itineraries dedicated to a curriculum of culinary events on its “Cooking School Voyages.” And Regent Seven Seas recently launched its first at-sea “Culinary Arts Kitchen” on board what is being billed as the most luxurious ship ever to set sail, Seven Seas Explorer. Passengers can fire up their induction cooktops at one of 18 individual cooking stations, all with ocean views. But for mere mortals, the program offered by Viking Ocean Cruises is a winner. It combines the full attention of one of the chefs responsible for giving Viking the highest passenger rating for food in the industry, according to Cruise Critic, the No. 1 web site for cruisers.
Offered on sea days, classes are limited to 12 eager gourmets. Held in “The Kitchen Table,” a kitchen equipped with giant TV monitors so that no one in the place misses a beat of the whisk, this glorious space is ideal for both preparing and serving the meal. On a recent trip where Viking Star was being re-positioned from New York to San Juan, we attended an all-morning class conducted by chef Romain Boulloud.
Boulloud is responsible for the output in the stellar “Chef’s Table” one of two specialty restaurants on board. The chef’s peripatetic career started in his home in Lans En Vercors in the French Alps where he owned a restaurant called Brasserie de Marais. From there he ventured to Leister in England, to Monaco’s Hotel Metropole, and the Michelin-starred Chevre d’Or in Èze. In between, the chef took to the sea to cook aboard prestige ships like Paul Gauguin and both Seven Seas Voyager and Mariner. Under his supervision, we prepped ingredients for a three-course meal using recipes that would be featured on Viking’s Caribbean itineraries this winter.
Chef Romain Boulloud, Chef de Cuisine, Viking Star
First up was the appetizer, a panko-crusted lobster cake. Golden brown and filled with both lobster and crab meat, the cake sat upon a rich lobster broth garnished with cress. Next up, our main course featured seared mahi mahi, the recipe for which we’ve published here: http://chewingthefat.us.com/2016/11/cuisine-on-worlds-1-cruise-line.html Finally, we came to dessert. Here we created a simply beautiful coconut profiterole dish. Mercifully, the choux pastry used was pre-prepared so it fell on the cooking school class to make the filling, cut the profiteroles in two and pipe in the coconut cream. A lesson in plating followed as we brushed the plate with chocolate sauce, added kiwis, oranges and strawberries, raspberry sauce, and a sprinkle of roasted coconut. At the end of the class, the sommelier appeared with wines to accompany every course and we sat down to lunch with a sense of accomplishment on every plate.
In a big bowl, mix parsley, 2 oz. breadcrumbs, egg, Worcestershire Sauce, lemon, butter, Dijon mustard, and mayonnaise. Gently fold in the crab and lobster meat.
Season to taste with salt, ground pepper, and cayenne pepper.
Divide the mixture into equal portions; using the ring cutter (No. 60) to shape into a cake. Place on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Refrigerate for 5 hours before next step.
Dip the crab cakes first in flour, then in the beaten eggs, and finally in the 5 ounces of breadcrumbs.
Cool in the fridge until needed (45 minutes at least).
Fry the finished cakes in butter until golden-brown and finish in a 325-degree oven until hot on the inside.
For the lobster broth:
Using kitchen scissors, cut the lobster shell into small pieces and bash them roughly with a meat mallet to loosen as much meat as you can (this adds flavor to the broth). Heat the oil in a cast-iron Dutch oven. Add the lobster shell pieces and sauté until bright pink and lightly caramelized.
Add butter, onion, carrots, celery, fennel, and garlic. Sauté for another 10 minutes, until everything is aromatic and the vegetables softened but not browned.
Add the tomato paste, stir well and cook for 2 minutes. Deglaze with the Pastis or Pernod, stirring well until the liquid disappears. Pour the cognac and flame. When the alcohol is totally burned, add the tomatoes and fish stock. Bring to a boil, add the bouquet garni and simmer gently for about 40 minutes.
Stir from time to time to prevent the shells from sticking to the bottom of the pan.
Remove the bouquet garni; using an immersion blender, liquefy the broth then strain through a fine sifter.
Season to taste with salt and pepper. Finish with cream.
Before serving, finish with an extra splash of Ricard and fresh orange juice.
For the garnish and plating:
Place mix of the herb garden cress in a bowl, drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil and lemon juice. Pour the broth into shallow bowls. Place a lobster cake atop the broth. Top with the cress salad.
Coconut Profiterole
Viking Ocean Cruises’ cooking class recipe
For the choux pastry:
36 pâte à choux pastry shells, halved
For the filling:
1 Pound coconut purée
2 Cups milk
3 1/2 Ounces coconut paste
1 Cup Malibu Coconut Liqueur
10 Ounces marscapone
8 Cups whipped cream
5 Ounces shredded coconut
4 Cups whipped cream
2 Teaspoons cinnamon
For the plating:
3 Cups chocolate sauce
1 Pound kiwis, peeled
2.2 Pounds navel oranges, peeled
3/4 Pounds fresh strawberries
3 Cups raspberry sauce
10 Ounces sweet shredded coconut, roasted
1 bunch of mint
Directions
For the choux pastry:
Prepare pâte à choux, making a total of 36 pastry shells.
For the filling:
Mix the coconut purée, milk, coconut paste, and Malibu rum in a large bowl. Fold in the mascarpone, then fold in the whipped cream and refrigerate.
Cut the pastry shells in half and pipe the coconut cream into the bottom half by using a star nozzle (No. 6). Sprinkle with shredded coconut. Place the second half of the pastry shell atop the cream-filled bottom half.
Mix cinnamon into the whipped cream and gently whisk until incorporated. Put the cinnamon-infused whipped cream on top.
For the plating:
Brush the plate with chocolate sauce. Place 3 profiteroles atop the chocolate.
Place diced kiwi fruit, orange segments, and cubes of strawberries around the pastry.
Pipe dots of raspberry sauce between pieces of fruit and sprinkle with roasted coconut.
Pour more chocolate sauce over the profiteroles. Place a rosette of whipped cream and a sprig of mint atop the pastry. Serve.
Did you know that New York State is the second largest apple producer in the whole country? Only Washington State tops us. Trust a resourceful friend of ours, Wendy Brovetto, native New Yorker and grandchild of an Upstate New York Farm family, to create truly incredible Rustic Apple Jams in 4 extraordinary flavors. When she did, Croton Trading Co. was born.
Wendy explains ”We created our apple jam after one of those overzealous days of apple picking yielded a larger-than-usual haul. With more apples than any family could consume, the experimenting began and gave way to what we think is the perfect blend of apples and cinnamon.”
“We source our apples from local NY Orchards -- Thompson's Orchard in Westchester Co andl Richters Orchard on Long Island. I have a special fondness for these family-owned farms. Richters Orchard was a big part of my childhood, as my sistersand I would go on weekly outings with my dad to stock up on apples and cider"
"We carefully blend different apples to create our flavor profile and find inspiration from seasonal spices to create our Apple Jam”. Wendy proudly states.
Now Croton Trading Company is up to 4 flavors: Fall Harvest Blend, Ginger Pear Fusion, Chai, and Brown Sugar. You can see the whole range here:
Needless to say, we couldn’t wait to put Croton Trading Company’s Apple Jam to work making our Skillet Apple Pork Chops. This one-pot recipe is perfect for weeknights but so good you may want to serve to company. The chops finish cooking in Croton Trading’s Apple Jam and we always serve it on the side to give even more great apple taste to the dish. Here’s the recipe:
1 ½ tablespoons olive oil, divided
4 (6-oz.) bone-in pork chops
¾ teaspoon kosher salt, divided
¾ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, divided
½ cup unsalted chicken stock (such as Swanson)
1 cup Croton Trading Rustic Apple Jam (we used Ginger Pear)
1 tablespoon chopped fresh sage
1 ½ teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary
1 small red onion, thinly vertically sliced
Chopped Parsley for garnish.
Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add 1 1/2 teaspoons oil to pan; swirl to coat. Sprinkle pork chops evenly with 3/8 teaspoon salt and 3/8 teaspoon pepper. Add pork chops to pan; cook 5 minutes on each side or until pork chops beautifully browned. Remove from pan. Set aside pan and drippings.
In a small bowl, combine stock and Croton Trading Apple Jam, stirring with a whisk. Set aside. Add remaining 1 tablespoon oil to pan with drippings, swirl. Add remaining 3/8 teaspoon salt, remaining 3/8 teaspoon pepper, sage, rosemary, and onion to pan; cook 4 minutes, stirring occasionally. Stir in stock mixture. Return pork chops to pan; cook 3 minutes or until liquid is reduced by half. Plate each chop individually. Top with chopped parsley as a garnish. Serve with plenty of Croton Trading Apple Jam on the side.