If we can cook it, you can cook it!

Daniel Boulud’s Corn and Heirloom Tomato Tart

Spread the love
The Decor of Maison Boulud gets high marks too!
       Daniel Boulud is no stranger to these pages.  His recipes are as reliable as his restaurants, the latest of which just opened in Montreal’s newly renovated Ritz Carlton Hotel ( 1228 Sherbrooke St. Ouest, Montreal QC H3g 1H6 Tel: 514-842-4212 ) The place only opened at the end of May and there are currently 166 reviews of it on Open Table alone!  Almost all of them assign “Maison Boulud” 5 stars.  Since my parents spent years and years going to that same Ritz at every opportunity, I have great affection for the hotel.  It came as no real surprise that Chef Boulud has made magic there.  I just wish I could whip up and sample what is taking the town by storm.  However, I will have to content myself with his recipe made with food from closer to home.  In fact, the two mainstays of this dish came straight from the farm that’s right over the hill from our house.  And what a dish it is!  The burst of tomato flavor, the sweetness of the corn and the fluffiest of pastry crusts are a wonderful salute to the end of summer.  We’d give this one 5 stars and name the recipe one of our best finds this summer.

         Every month, Chef Boulud is featured in Elle Décor magazine with a column called “Daniel’s Dish”.  I can’t begin to tell you how often I make whatever he is writing about.  There’s a luxe quality to his food and in the case of this tart, the Chef has elevated these two summer staples—corn and tomatoes—and made them into an elegant almost quiche-like dish that we served with a simple green salad for an outdoor lunch.  The corn filling is custard-like with both pureed corn and fresh kernels.  Then the tomato topping, with its panko crumbs and parmesan cheese, adds another dimension of summer-y flavor.  We used the heirloom cherry tomatoes found at Country Gardens in Bridgehampton. But Chef Boulud encourages combining whatever tomato looks fresh and ripe.  I couldn’t help thinking that yellow or orange or purple tomatoes would have added even more color than the red ones I chose.  Finally there’s the corn.
Tomatoes at Country Garden
         At Country Garden, no corn is ever sold that’s more than one day away from the stalk. In fact, at the end of the day, whatever has not been sold is used for feed corn.  It’s a simple fact that the minute corn is harvested, it starts to build up starch.  And in sweet corn, half the sugar will convert to starch within two days. The result is that it loses its sweetness.  The best corn is left in the husk until just before you plan to cook it.  Of course the simplest way to make corn is simply to leave it on the cob and then cook it by literally putting it into boiling water and taking it right out after a minute and not longer.  But I am not a fan of corn on the cob.  I think it’s one of those things that you really shouldn’t eat in public.  Better by far to take it off the cob and cook it adding elements that enhance the corn flavor.  
          This summer I saw a technique in Cook’s Illustrated for getting the kernels off the cob that’s been a revelation.  You mount the corn on the center of a Bundt Pan and then with a sharp knife you strip the kernels from the cob and they all fall into the Bundt pan.  This is so much neater than any other method which always seemed to leave me standing in a sea of kernels that missed the bowl and ended up on the floor.  Try it.  And for goodness sake, try this fantastic recipe. Here it is.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.