Granted, “Canard et Champagne” (Duck and Champagne) are arguably two of France’s greatest gifts to cuisine but it took some nerve to open a restaurant which sells nothing else. But that is precisely what Jean-Francois Montfort and partners Jean Valfort and Pierre Dutaret did when they moved into a former chocolatier’s space a 57 Passages des Panoramas (Paris 75002 Reservations: 09 81 83 95 69 Open Tuesday to Saturday 12 Noon till Midnight). The moderately priced restaurant immediately shot to the top of Trip Advisor’s Paris listings coming in at number 1 in a matter of weeks.
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| The Lunch Menu |
The pricing structure is simple. A starter and a main course are 26 Euros at dinner (17.50 at lunch), add a dessert to that for 34 Euros (20.50 at lunch) or go with the ultimate prix fixe: 62 Euros for food and 2 champagnes. Extra Brut comes with the starter, a Rosé Champagne with the main course and a vintage Blanc de Blanc. And for those for whom champagne seems too decadent at lunch, there’s a list of still wines by the glass.
As to the main event, the duck finds its way to the table as an excellent torchon of Foie Gras as a starter. Or choose between a Confit or a sliced breast of duck. You may even be there when the chef, Jason Roman, a Peruvian by birth, creates a duck and mushroom risotto that is in the words of its GM, Jean-Francois, ‘out of this world’. Not to be missed are the desserts from Boulangerie BO, the Parisian hot spot presided over by baking stars, Benoit Gindre et Olivier Haustraete.
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| Jean-Francois Montfort, hands-on Manager. |
Finally, there’s the restaurant itself. Passages des Panoramas has become a real food destination. Amidst the Stamp and Coin Collectors boutiques, restaurants are popping up the length of the historic Passages. Canard et Champagne has managed to preserve the exquisite woodwork dating from the time of Francois Marquis, “the chocolatier of Kings” as well as the Cordoba leather ceiling. But into the mix, the partners have added a giant blow up of one France’s most famous actors. Louis de Funes is seen taking a bow in “The Grand Restaurant”, which strikes us as the perfect salute to this great place.
May 20, 2016 | 2:47 pm
Top of Form
Recipe for Simple and Satisfying Duck Confit
If you can’t make it to Paris, here’s a way to create duck confit right in your own home
By
Staff Writer
The original method for making the dish is to cure duck legs in spices and salt, submerge them in duck fat, and cook them very slowly until they emerge crispy and crunchy from the oven. But just imagine the amount of duck fat needed! That’s why this recipe is such a godsend for duck confit-lovers. It does require a 24-hour wait before cooking, but the results are worth every minute.
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
1 bay leaf, crumbled
4 moulard duck legs (about 4 pounds total), rinsed and patted dry but not trimmed
Roasted potatoes, noodles and sturdy, bitter greens such as arugula, chicory and/or radicchio, for serving.
1. In a small bowl, combine salt, pepper, thyme and bay leaf pieces. Sprinkle duck generously with mixture. Place duck legs in a pan in one layer. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 24 hours.
2. The next day, heat oven to 325 degrees. Place duck legs, fat side down, in a large ovenproof skillet, with legs fitting snugly in a single layer (you may have to use two skillets or cook them in batches). Heat duck legs over medium-high heat until fat starts to render. When there is about 1/4 inch of rendered fat in pan, about 20 minutes, flip duck legs, cover pan with foil, and place it in oven. If you have used two pans, transfer duck and fat to a roasting pan, cover with foil and place in oven.
3. Roast legs for 2 hours, then remove foil and continue roasting until duck is golden brown, about 1 hour more. Remove duck from fat; reserve fat for other uses.
4. Serve duck hot or warm, over roasted potatoes or noodles or sturdy salad greens.
Yield: 4 servings.
More Stories by Monte Mathews Monte Mathews is the proprietor of Brick Kiln Kitchens located in Bridgehampton, New York. You can read more of his work at www.chewingthefat.us.com. Read more
