“The Joy of Cooking” 
was one of the first cookbooks I was ever aware of.
It, along with Boston Cooking School Cookbook
(aka Fanny Farmer), the enormous Gourmet Cookbooks Volumes 1 and 2
, and something called “The Encyclopedia of Canadian Cooking
” (yes, Encyclopedia) formed the backbone of my family’s cookbook library. Aside from those Junior League recipe collections, which inevitably involved cans of Campbell’s Cream of Something
soups, that was about it. But one recipe from “Joy” remained in my mind. It was the notorious recipe for Tamale Pie.
was one of the first cookbooks I was ever aware of. It, along with Boston Cooking School Cookbook
(aka Fanny Farmer), the enormous Gourmet Cookbooks Volumes 1 and 2, and something called “The Encyclopedia of Canadian Cooking” (yes, Encyclopedia) formed the backbone of my family’s cookbook library. Aside from those Junior League recipe collections, which inevitably involved cans of Campbell’s Cream of Something soups, that was about it. But one recipe from “Joy” remained in my mind. It was the notorious recipe for Tamale Pie.
I say notorious because in 1997, when the Editors of “Joy” undertook its first revamping in years, they not only slashed dozens of recipes, they changed the whole tone of the book. The original author, a woman named Irma Rombauer, wrote in the first person. And she covered
everything from canning to quantities. The newer volume assumed its reader knew more than Mrs. Rombauer ever gave them credit for and was roundly criticized. It knocked out numbers of family favorites but not the Tamale Pie. Therefore, that recipe got enormous amount of press. I
tried it then and wondered what was the fuss about. “Joy’s” Tamale Pie was basically chopped meat covered in a cornmeal crust. It was good but I don’t recall running out and thinking I must make this once a week. In fact, I haven’t made it since 1997.
Just to finish the Joy Of Cooking story, in 2006 a “75th Anniversary” version was published restoring both Mrs. Rombauer’s voice to the book and many simpler recipes using pre-made and store-bought ingredients like….well, cans of Cream of Something soup. The recipe that attracted my attention was using the Tamale Pie technique but switching out the chopped beef for a rich
and spicy filling of pork and poblano chiles, just the kind of thing that we crave as it gets colder. And today in New York, where the temperature is likely to hit 45 degrees, seems like a very good day for it. This incarnation is from Bon Appetit. It’s both inexpensive and filling and I think you will like it.
Here’s the recipe:
everything from canning to quantities. The newer volume assumed its reader knew more than Mrs. Rombauer ever gave them credit for and was roundly criticized. It knocked out numbers of family favorites but not the Tamale Pie. Therefore, that recipe got enormous amount of press. I
tried it then and wondered what was the fuss about. “Joy’s” Tamale Pie was basically chopped meat covered in a cornmeal crust. It was good but I don’t recall running out and thinking I must make this once a week. In fact, I haven’t made it since 1997.
Just to finish the Joy Of Cooking story, in 2006 a “75th Anniversary” version was published restoring both Mrs. Rombauer’s voice to the book and many simpler recipes using pre-made and store-bought ingredients like….well, cans of Cream of Something soup. The recipe that attracted my attention was using the Tamale Pie technique but switching out the chopped beef for a rich
and spicy filling of pork and poblano chiles, just the kind of thing that we crave as it gets colder. And today in New York, where the temperature is likely to hit 45 degrees, seems like a very good day for it. This incarnation is from Bon Appetit. It’s both inexpensive and filling and I think you will like it.
Here’s the recipe:
Recipe for Pork and Poblano Tamale Pie
For the Meat Filling:
12 ounces fresh poblano chiles* (about 4 large)1 large green bell pepper
1 1/2 teaspoons cumin seeds
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
1 10-ounce package frozen corn kernels, thawed
2 tablespoons vegetable oil or olive oil, divided
1 1/2 pounds trimmed boneless country-style pork ribs, cut into 1-inch cubes
Coarse kosher salt
2 cups chopped white onions
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 1/2 tablespoons minced seeded jalapeño chiles
1 tablespoon dried oregano
1 cup low-salt chicken broth
1 cup purchased salsa verde (tomatillo salsa)
1/3 cup coarsely chopped fresh cilantro
For the Cornbread topping:
3/4 cup all purpose flour
3/4 cup yellow cornmeal (preferably whole-grain stone-ground)
1 teaspoon baking powder
3/4 teaspoon salt
3/4 teaspoon chili powder
3/4 cup whole milk
1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, melted
1 large egg
1 tablespoon honey
1 1/4 cups (packed) coarsely grated sharp cheddar cheese (about 5 ounces), divided
Sour cream to pass with the pie.
Equipment:
A 10-inch-diameter 2 1/2-inch-deep ovenproof skillet (preferably cast-iron).
To make the pie filling:
1. Char poblano chiles and bell pepper in broiler until blackened on all sides. Transfer chiles and bell pepper to large bowl; cover and let steam 10 minutes. Peel, seed, and coarsely chop chiles and bell pepper.
2. Stir cumin seeds and coriander seeds in small dry skillet over medium heat until fragrant and slightly darker in color, about 3 minutes. Remove seeds from heat and cool completely. Finely grind toasted seeds in spice mill or in mortar with pestle. Transfer to small bowl and set aside.
3. Coarsely puree thawed corn kernels in processor. Cover and refrigerate corn puree until ready to use.
4. Heat 1 tablespoon vegetable oil in heavy large pot over medium-high heat. Sprinkle pork with coarse salt and pepper. Working in batches, add pork to pot and sauté until brown on all sides, about 8 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer pork to medium bowl.
5. Add remaining 1 tablespoon oil to pot, then add chopped onions and sauté until tender, about 5 minutes. Add ground spice mixture, garlic, jalapeño, and oregano; stir 1 minute. Return pork and any accumulated juices to pot. Add chicken broth, scraping up any browned bits. Add salsa verde and bring to boil. Reduce heat; cover partially and simmer 30 minutes.
6. Add chopped chiles, chopped bell pepper, and half of corn puree to pork mixture; cover partially and simmer until pork is very tender, stirring occasionally, about 1 hour 15 minutes longer. Season pie filling to taste with coarse salt and pepper.
7. Stir in chopped cilantro. Put the filling in the 10 inch cast iron pan.
To make the cornbread topping:
1. Preheat oven to 400°F.
2. Whisk flour, yellow cornmeal, baking powder, salt, and chili powder in large bowl to blend. Whisk remaining corn puree, whole milk, melted butter, egg, and honey in medium bowl to blend. Add corn puree mixture to flour mixture and stir just until blended. Stir in 1/2 cup grated cheddar cheese. Sprinkle remaining 3/4 cup cheddar cheese over pie filling in skillet. Drop cornbread batter by large spoonfuls atop pie filling. Spread cornbread batter evenly to cover pie filling completely.
B 3. Bake tamale pie until cornbread topping is deep golden brown and tester inserted into center comes out clean, 30 to 40 minutes. Serve tamale pie hot, passing sour cream alongside.
* Often called pasillas; available at some supermarkets and at specialty foods stores, farmers’ markets, and Latin markets.
