It’s only fitting that La Couronne — literally “The Crown” — wears its title proudly. Founded in 1345, it’s not only the oldest restaurant in France but a living museum of everything deliciously French. See it here by clicking on this link. IMG_7133
I arrived in Rouen aboard Riviera Travel’s MS Jane Austen
The stately river ship glides up the Seine toward Normandy’s heart. (Story to follow soon!) From the gangway to the cobbled streets of Rouen, it’s barely a stroll before you find yourself face-to-face with history. La Couronne’s half-timbered façade sits snugly between its neighbors — one of which, to my surprise, sported dangling Halloween figures. Who knew France had fallen under the spell of Hallowe’en? La Couronne eschews the holiday. It has more important things to celebrate. It was, after all, the setting for the first meal Julia Child and her husband Paul had on French soil. And it was so impressive that it set the stage for Julia to become America’s beloved Ambassador of French Cooking. And so I came here on a culinary pilgrimage to experience the exact meal that Julia and Paul enjoyed on November 3, 1948,
Inside, the restaurant is a cathedral to gastronomy.
Every inch of wall is papered with photographs: royalty, movie stars, artists, and presidents — from Queen Elizabeth II to Salvador Dalí, and more French celebrities than the red carpet at Cannes. Up the creaking ancient stairs, the air smells faintly of butter and history. At the top of the landing, Julia Child rules the table. As you turn the corner, there she is smiling broadly in a wonderfully familiar portrait. Larger than life and every bit as joyful, with a bold “Bon Appétit!” sweeping across the wall. It’s so commanding, so Julia, I swear I could hear her voice. A few steps farther, you’re seated in a sun-washed upstairs room overlooking the Place du Vieux-Marché, where Joan of Arc met her fate. Today, a strikingly modern glass-and-steel church and shrine gleams across the square — centuries of France facing each other through your window.
Lunch began with six small oysters…
Petite in size but ferociously briny — the kind that seems to carry the whole Channel in their shells. Then came Sole Meunière, the dish that changed Julia’s life and, in some small way, mine too. She called her first taste here “a revelation to the palate,” and it’s easy to see why. The fish, lightly floured and bathed in butter, brightened with lemon and parsley, is the essence of French cuisine: restraint married to indulgence. I couldn’t resist thinking of it as the soul of French cooking and the Sole Meunière — Julia might have chuckled at that. After the sole, a green salad arrived — crisp and dressed with a mustardy Dijon vinaigrette so bold it jolted me upright. Julia ended her epoch-making lunch with cheese, but I was presented with a Grand Marnier soufflé so light, so ethereal, that I forgave the deviation instantly.
And then, the wine…
Julia and Paul had shared a Pouilly-Fuissé, and I was determined to do the same. Ordering a half-bottle may have been bold for mid-day, but in Normandy, one must honor tradition. The surprise? The wine cost €41, while the entire lunch — oysters, sole, salad, and soufflé — came to just €68. In a world of overpriced mediocrity, that’s practically an act of grace.
La Couronne isn’t merely a restaurant.
It’s a pilgrimage — a journey through time, taste, and one woman’s joyful discovery. Julia found her calling here. I found a meal that reminded me why I love France. Across the street, Joan’s shrine stands as a testament to the French spirit. Inside La Couronne, a plate of Sole Meunière stands as proof of the French soul.
Here’s today’s recipe from the pages of Mastering the Art of French Cooking
The dish is wholly about the fish, butter, lemon and parsley — minimalism as full-blown joy. Julia Child's Sole Meuniere for 2
Ingredients
Directions
Here’s another Julia Child Recipe that is a favorite of one of Julia’s most devoted followers…Meryl Streep!
